A Chardonnay homecoming- 2020 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne 1er Cru

 

This is the type of wine that I wish I could put in front of every person who poo-poos Chardonnay. Those who put it into a box (not literally Franzia) and generalize. 

I was pleased to put Drouhin on our list when visiting Burgundy. I urge you to do the same. Not only are they located in the heart of Beaune over centuries-old monastic caves. They craft a range of wines from village-level Bourgogne to cru vineyards, truly providing something for every palate and pocket. 

I was anxious to drink this on the younger side for two reasons. One, just while touring and photographing the nearby cathedral, the necks of my bottles for hot with some seepage (rookie mistake) and I wanted to see that I'd not ruined it outright. Two, I was working with an amazing filet of Atlantic salmon and simply wanted to enjoy it in its youth. 

For me, Puligny can show more verve and focus than it's Chassagne sisters. This is a beautiful example of a layered wine with lovely texture that exhibits liveliness and bright acid. 

On the nose, Meyer lemon juice squeezed over crisp green pear and golden apple with accents of crushed limestone and underripe apricot and white peach. Mere kisses of vanilla bean appear with a suggestion of Chantilly cream and whiffs of sweet pea tendril. 

It has a lovely texture kept lively by bright and serious acidity. Flavors range and evolve from crunchy underripe apricot, golden apple, D'Anjou pear, lemon, Clementine zest and Asian pear crunchiness. There are undercurrents of limestone and white flowers with a slight touch of salinity and whiffs of creme brulee. It somehow manages at the finish to both gain richness leaning into vanilla and toast, as well as being washed clean with lemon zest and bright acidity. A touch of youthful grip makes the flavors hold through the cleansing acidity for a nice, mineral-tinged finish that persists. There are suggestions of sweet melon on the aftertaste. It is fascinatingly complex. 

Should you locate it stateside, it won't be cheap, but if you appreciate the intricacies of Burgundian Chardonnay, this is well worth seeking out. The backbone promises a long-lived wine that will no doubt gain complexity and become more interesting with time in the cellar. C'est bon. 

2018 Murrieta's Wall Estate Vineyard Small Lot Malbec

 I popped in here while in the area for a friend's wedding in Pleasanton. It's apparently owned by a Wente. I'd say that shows in both the large and welcoming hospitality center and great views as well as the quality in the winemaking. 

This was my top wine of the flight, which is something, as I rarely seek out Malbec. 

Now a month afterf the visit, I popped the cork. 

A layered nose greets with aromas of nearby humidor, cracked peppercorns, spice, new leather and wood. The fruit on the nose leads to spiced plum with added cassis, mulberry jam and blueberry compote. Really lovely, lifted aromatics. 

It has bright acidity focused initially on red currant and red candied plums. There is a streak of oxidation giving a bit of flabbiness in the verve of the acid which leads the palate into rich, candied fruit compote of dark berries, currants and plum. There are warm baking spices and hints of black and white pepper. Almost a suggestion of cumin. Some hints of green herbs act to nicely balance out the rich, almost unctuous fruit. 

Well suited to a big red meat meal with some big flavors and seasoning. Thankfully it retains some smacky acidity through the finish to keep things in line. Tasty, teetering on rich. Just stops before becoming cloyingly fruited.