2020 Maggy Hawk Skycrest Vineyard Chardonnay Anderson Valley

 

A pretty and lifted nose with aromas of juicy pear, white peach, golden apple and hints of sweet pea tendrils and whiffs of lemongrass. Mere wafts of oak. 

On the palate, it balances a nice mouthful with a bright frame of acidity. Flavors of golden apple, Asian and Bartlett pear, and crunchy white peach provide a succulent mouthful of ripe fruit with faint suggestions of zip that suggest ginger and lemongrass. It doesn't linger long due to the mouth-watering acidity but the flavors persist nicely. 

A really lovely, balanced expression. 

2022 Hagafen Sauvignon Blanc

 

This is just about half Napa and half Mendocino counties. It might be the variety of fruit and/or the winemaking, but this is a very pleasant SB. I myself tend to not enjoy too many Sauvignon Blanc wines from Napa, finding them too pithy and abrasively acidic and citrus leaning into grapefruit. 

The ones that provide more melon and tropical notes tend to be more my speed. 

This one offers a nose of lime zest, lemon, yellow melon, loads of minerality and fresh garden greens.

On the palate, well balanced flavors of citrus, melon and juicy tropical notes with hints of green snappy new growth and stone. The acidity is round and generous without being harsh or overbearing with moderate alcohol. A very tasty and refreshing wine. 

This winery is green, sustainable and even Kosher for those who seek these qualities. 

Drinking for a Cazes: 2018 Chateau Ormes de Pez

 Following the enjoyment of this St. Estepehe wine while visiting Lynch Bages in June and the recent passing of the vintner Jean-Michel Cazes, I saw a good price on this at the store and had to grab it. 

Generally, with the exception of Ch. Montrose, St. Estephe isn't my appellation. The wines can be more rustic and austere with more pronounced minerality and "harshness" until they age some. This is a nice example of an approachable wine from this AOC. 

The nose has a nice blend of leafy currant and ripe red and black currant aromas. The iron and graphite minerality is there for sure with hints of redwood and cedar. 

Ripe fruit on the palate without being unctuous or cloying, which is nice at 14.5% abv. That fresh greenness persists but not in an unpleasant way. Flavors of nearly ripe blackberry, black plum and currant lead with underlying red berries to add some brightness. There is grip with the still-resolving tannins which should relax nicely with another 5+ years in bottle. The acid is balanced. Some interesting sassafrass/cola notes emerge toward the finish with the slightest suggestions of black licorice. 

For me, in the immediate future, best with food. A quite nice wine at a reasonable price point (at least where I purchased it). 

Alsace 10 June 2023- Rolly Gassmann & Domaines Schlumberger

 Though a bit of a drive north of Burgundy, I wanted to close our wine trip in Alsace. Partially, because we believe my family hails from the Alsace Lorraine region and partly to add some high acid white wines to our lineup to refresh the palate after such a whirlwind trip and to experience the unique German & French architecture and culture here. 

A must-go for us was Rolly Gassmann. Way back when I worked part time for a boutique distributor in Las Vegas, Gassmann was in our book and I came to see how outstanding their wines are. The first time I'd ever tried Auxerrrois, which was mind blowing. 

So we ventured up past town after town, steeple after steeple before too long many hillsides held ancient castles and battlements. We arrived early, so we got to walk around some and enjoy the breathtaking view from the Rolly Gassmann facility's spacious deck overlooking Rorschwihr. 

Once inside, I was impressed by the scope. I didn't know how large they were and their new facility is super modern. It is balanced by not only their history, but prehistoric history. They have long monk's table after table covered in small rocks up to boulders from all 12 cru of the area. Not only rock and soil types, but ancient oceanic fossils, ancient tree fossils, mammal bones and even ancient tartrate buildup from the uncovered fermentation vessels from way back. It's really fascinating. 

What we weren't prepared for, was getting to taste just about everything they make! Thank Dionysus for spit buckets. In all, I counted about 57 wines. They make the full range of Alsatian whites, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurtztraminer and Auxerrois. It was also intreresting to try their Pinot Noir wines. They also craft the range from drier examples from varietal to reserve bottlings, then up to Vendanges Tardive and Selection Grains Nobles. Some of the standouts of the day for me:

2011 Weingarten de Rorschwihr Sylvaner

2003 Auxerrois de Rorschwihr

2021 Riesling de Rorschwihr Reserve Rolly Gassmann

2015 Silberberg de Rorschwihr SGN

2019 Pinot Gris Reserve Rolly Gassmann

2005 Pinot Gris de Rorschwihr SGN

The varietal wines that overall got my highest marks and were speaking most to me that day for their acidity, balance and complexity were the Pinot Gris and Gewurtz wines. Specifically, an interesting mix of white tea on the 2019 Oberer Weingarten de Rorschwihr Gewurtz and the super floral nose and ginger finish on the 2021 Keppelweg de Rorschwihr.  Another delicious more decadent example would be the 2008 Oberer Weingarten de Rorschwihr VT. There were loads of tangerines and Cara Cara orange on the 2005 Pinot Gris de Rorschwihr SGN. We also got to sample a few from 1994 and 1996 and they're still lush and interesting. I could have easily assembled a case here, but alas, had 3 spaces left in my wine valise and could perhaps fit two more bottles in my suitcase. 

After the epitome of rich Alsatian lunches,

in which I had the veal in mushroom cream sauce with spaetzel (friend's pictured above), we ventured tardily on to our appointment at Domaines Schlumberger. They were great about hosting us though we were late and missed the tour. They were also super generous about letting us taste a wide range of their offerings. 

I think perhaps Alsace is not my region for Pinot Noir, though I did enjoy the Schlumberger bottlings a bit more than those of Gassmann. I think the cold makes them a bit too biting and herbal for me. But for refreshing, high acid whites from dry to sweeter... man! This is where it's at. Schlumberger offers a nice range of Grand Cru bottlings (which for the uninitiated, are later picked with more RS). 

Burgundy Day Two 9 June 2023: Comtes Senard and JCB les Ursulines

 Our second day in Burgundy was affected from the start by a language barrier issue. We got to sleep in some and began our day later with a planned lunch experience at Domaine Comtes Senard. We arrived to them letting us know the lunch was fully booked and we were not on the list. In all the busy-ness in planning, I took for granted the email in French was a confirmation. Seems it was simply an acknowledgement my request was received, follwed by an email I took to be all good, but if I'd examined it closer, would have at least recognized the universal word, regret. 

In any case, they were very accommodating in offering us a tour of the grounds, caves and a seated tasting, which was very magnanimous. I feel like we may have tasted 3 wines, but I only photographed two. We enjoyed the 2016 Grand Cru Corton "Les Perrieres" and the 2005 Grand Cru Corton Les Paulandes. Lovely wines exhibiting power and complexity with nice finesse in balance. Had to leave with a bottle, so I worked with them on the best library vintage to best suit my preferences. The lunch does look quite enjoyable so hope to make it back someday for it. 

After a Burgundian lunch, we were off to sample the wines of Jean Claude Boisset at Les Ursulines. Touring this ancient monastic estate with fully preserved areas of their sacrament-making and housing along with another impressive cave system was great. They are also built into a hillside which we got to hike up for stunning views of the surrounding grand cru hillsides and over Nuits Saint-Georges. They offer a nice video presentation in their more modern reception building, followed by a step back in time. They focus heavily on the earth's energies, which are exemplified throughout the impressive facility. 

On top of the hill in an enclave of apple trees is an oculus.  It looks down into a room in the cellar with a reflective orb. Pretty cool.

Here, we got to experience 5 each white and red wines from a range of their bottlings. Every single wine was of exceptional quality and was simply delicious! We also barrel tasted a couple of wines.

2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Ursulines

     Crisp, fresh and bright with good texture. A riper, luscious, more modern style.

2021 Marsannay

     Aromas of peach and lychee with citrus with a touch of marzipan. Nice texture and well integrated with a bit of salinity. Flavors of apple, pear and underripe apricot. Nice acidity.

2020 Santenay 1er Cru Passetemps

     Nice oak spice on the nose. Apple tart in its aromas. It has mouth-watering acid. Vibrant apple and peach on the palate along with citrus brightness. It is both ripe and luscious, exhibiting great balance.

2021 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Terres Blanches

     1 barrel production! This wine is Pinot Blanc. It had a briny nose with a touch of white pepper over pear and apple aromas along with Charentais melon. On the palate, floral and spicy with white pepper and suggestions of coriander. Baked golden apple flavors along with poached pear, lemon curd and a hint of tarragon. It leans savory and spice laden. A very pleasant and interesting wine.

2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly

     Not a very generous nose at first. Floral and crisp with a touch of oak spice. On the palate, very juicy fruit with flavors of citrus, nectarine, apricot and lemon with Comice pear and yellow apple. Excellent integration with balancing acidity. 

2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Ursulines

     Has a bright cherry and currant nose. On the palate, it's loaded with fresh, crunchy fruits like red apple skin, sherry, currant and underripe raspberry. A fresh and easy style that drinks nicely.

2020 Chambolle-Musigny

     Darker fruit here on a powerful nose. (tasted 4th in red lineup, but I kept the listing as it was printed for us) Blackberry aromas with red and black currant and just a touch leafy. Also, red and black plums. On the palate, it has a voluptuous entry with big, ripe berry and plum flavors. Some fresh prune and turkey fig add to its complexity. Nice edge of spice. 

2021 Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Valozieres

     Spicy, savory nose that is a touch rustic and exhibits clay and dry red berry, like currant and cranberry. It has a forward pungency on the palate, with flavors of tart red fruits. Cranberry, cherry and a touch of green strawberry along with a streak of minerality. Loads of tension in this wine, so have with a meal or give it time. 

2021 Maranges 1er Cru La Fuissiere

     Possesses lovely floral aromas and ripe red fruits with red flowers. Bright acidity on the entry lead by Christmas spices and cinnamon candy. Orange zest. All through, it's a citrus-backed mouthful of floral potpourri and red berries. 

2020 Corton-Les Renardes Grand Cru

     Densely colored in the glass and with a "wild" nose of sous bois, leather, animal, terra cotta, sage and dark fruits. Mezmerizing in its layers of aroma. Flavors of Chambord, black plum, blackberry, currants and a touch of boysenberry with spice, and kirsch/Luxardo cherry. Also contains a slight truffle savory character. It retains nice balance for all the power therein.

Following this tasting we drove up to Vosne Romanee to view DRC vineyards and Clos de Vougeot.